By Dathan Kazsuk
Every kitchen has a rhythm—and behind it, a chef setting the temperature.
For this installment of our Kitchen Confidential series, we step behind the line with James Eason, executive chef at Irregardless—a Raleigh institution now 50 years young. With more than 15 years of professional experience and a culinary path shaped in San Francisco’s Michelin-starred kitchens, Eason brings a distinctly California sensibility to the Triangle—ingredient-driven, restrained, and intentional.
Since taking the helm at Irregardless in October 2024, he’s focused on building a strong kitchen culture, simplifying plates, and letting great products do the talking. From bacon-wrapped Medjool dates and scallops with collards to vegan dishes that win over even the skeptics, Eason’s cooking reflects a philosophy rooted in clarity, consistency, and community. In this conversation, he talks trends worth keeping (and ditching), the realities of running a long-standing local restaurant, and why the best food isn’t made for the camera, but for the people gathered around the table.
1. What ingredient are you obsessed with right now, and how are you using it on the menu?
Medjool dates—bacon-wrapped and stuffed with house-made Boursin [cheese].
2. What’s a food trend you wish Raleigh would embrace—and one you wish would disappear?
I’d love to see Raleigh continue leaning into ingredient-driven cooking—chefs working closely with local farmers, simplifying plates, and letting great products speak for themselves. As for a trend I’d like to see fade, it’s food built purely for the camera or social media. When dishes are designed that way, something gets lost. The best meals still happen when the focus is on flavor, feeling, and how it brings people together.
3. What’s the biggest mistake home cooks make when trying to recreate restaurant-level dishes?
Not having proper tools: blender, chinois, sharp knives, etc.
4. How has Raleigh’s dining scene changed since you first started cooking here?
Everything closes earlier, and good late-night options seem to be more limited.
5. Which dish on your current menu best reflects your culinary philosophy?
Seared scallops with aji amarillo, bacon lardons, wilted collard greens, lime, [and an] herb salad.
6. What’s the biggest risk you’ve taken on a menu—and did it pay off?
Lately, I put a vegan risotto on the menu. It’s been a great seller.
7. Which chef or restaurant—locally or nationally—inspires your work right now, and why?
I trained in San Francisco. I will always have a little bit of California in my approach. Nationally, Michael Tusk of Quince in San Francisco and David Kinch of Manresa are two of my biggest influences. Their simplistic approach is unparalleled. Locally, Chef Steven Greene of Herons at The Umstead Hotel, where I can confidently say, “He taught me everything cool I know how to do.”
Instagram: @senor_cocinero11
