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Sip & Savor

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By Dathan Kazsuk

Eighty-eight years. Let that number simmer for a second—longer than most Raleigh restaurants, longer than a couple marriages I know, and certainly longer than any diet I’ve ever attempted.

K&W Cafeteria was never trying to be the hottest table in town, or the coolest, or even the cleanest depending on who you ask. It existed in that bizarre middle ground between beloved institution and mild gastrointestinal threat. And honestly? That was part of its charm.

If you grew up anywhere near a K&W, you know the ritual. That cafeteria line—metal trays clattering, steam tables hissing like something out of Alien, and a parade of food that never really changed, because K&W didn’t believe in change.

Change was for people who didn’t trust their own meatloaf. You could walk in after a decade away and still find the same square of lasagna, the same fried fish, and the same unnervingly bright slice of pie glowing like it was powered by radioactive nostalgia.

To some, K&W was a weekly stop. A gathering place. Sunday lunch after church. A cheap dinner when you didn’t want to cook. A comforting routine for retirees who’d mastered the 4 p.m. dinner hour like it was an Olympic sport. And they loved it—not ironically, not nostalgically, but truly, the way some people love their old recliner with the busted armrest.

To others… well… let’s just say the cafeteria line wasn’t exactly the runway at Paris Fashion Week. It had its critics—people who swore the food tasted like it came straight from a 1976 church basement potluck, or that eating there was a guaranteed reminder to check the expiration date on your Tums.

But here’s the thing: K&W never pretended to be anything else. No QR codes. No $19 truffle fries. No cocktails served in artisanal glassware crafted from repurposed alpaca wool. Just food—simple, but undeniably part of the community fabric.

Photos by Stock.Adobe.com

Walking into K&W always felt like stepping into a time capsule. The muted carpet. The clinking silverware. The gravity-defying dessert tower. The quiet hum of conversation—families catching up, elderly regulars swapping stories, students grabbing a cheap meal, workers fueling up during lunch. It was a place where everyone was different, but nobody felt out of place.

And now it’s gone.

Eighty-eight years of meatloaf, mashed potatoes, and macaroni. Eighty-eight years of being a starting point, an endpoint, an in-between stop, and—depending on your digestive fortitude—a questionable life choice.

But it mattered. It mattered more than we realized.

K&W wasn’t cool. It wasn’t hip. It wasn’t reinventing dining. What it was—a reliable, weirdly comforting constant—is something we don’t get much anymore. In a world of pop-ups and concepts and influencer-driven menus, K&W just showed up, day after day, feeding people. All kinds of people.

Maybe you loved it. Maybe you hated it. Maybe you only went with your grandparents and never understood the appeal. But if you grew up in North Carolina, you probably have a K&W memory—good, bad, or deeply confusing.

And now that final serving line has gone quiet.

So here’s to K&W Cafeteria—an 88-year testament to simplicity, routine, community, and unapologetic mediocrity in the most endearing way possible. A place that somehow managed to be both beloved and mocked, comforting and questionable, nostalgic and slightly terrifying.

It was what it was. And we’ll miss it far more than we thought we would.

 
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