A POP-UP STARTUP
A trip down memory lane is not the only path Fine Folk has traveled. Although its brick-and-mortar location in Raleigh’s Gateway Plaza has now been open for about a year, the concept took a winding path to becoming a full-fledged restaurant. Lopez was originally the executive chef at Cary’s Postmaster, which specialized in seasonal, Southern-inspired fare.
When the pandemic shut down in-person dining, Postmaster’s team quickly realized the menu items weren’t meant to be served as to-go items. They needed a new concept—and fast. Gov’t Cheeseburger, branded from the start as “a temporary burger joint from the fine folks at Postmaster,” was born, and soon, burgers were flying out the door. Despite Gov’t Cheesburger’s rapid success, Lopez knew he wanted to do something more expansive long-term. That’s when he settled on Fine Folk, a name drawn from the Gov’t Cheeseburger tagline. Gov’t. Cheeseburger closed in November 2020 after a nearly eight-month run of burgers, and Fine Folk launched that Thanksgiving weekend.
For several months, Fine Folk operated as a pop-up four nights a week out of the Raleigh cocktail bar Foundation. Then, in March 2021, the team signed a lease on Fine Folk’s new home in Gateway Plaza. While they readied the space for opening, they transformed Union Special, the bakery next door, into a full-service restaurant four nights a week.
This experience of pushing Fine Folk food out of different kitchens contributed to a smooth opening in April 2022—and a ready-made fan base so loyal that Fine Folk was nominated for INDY Week’s Best New Restaurants list one day after officially opening its brick-and-mortar.
STAPLES AND SPECIALS
Along the way, Lopez and team stayed true to the concept of memory, and how it becomes linked with food. Visitors to Fine Folk can enjoy staples that will likely never leave the menu, such as spinach artichoke dip (which gets a kick from hot pepper bechamel and a funky flavor from fontina cheese), or wings that are seasoned by dehydrating lemon thyme—as a nod to lemon pepper dry rub—and then incorporating that into a citrus buffalo wing sauce. And yes, the popular burger from Gov’t Cheeseburger is still available—although it has evolved from its smash burger origins and is now a chargrilled burger “more reminiscent of Applebee’s,” Lopez says.
In addition to the staples, there are exciting specials—some in a regular rotation, such as the bottomless mussels on Mondays, and some that are only available for a limited time, such as a rosemary and garlic–rubbed prime rib served with fried potato salad. To create these inventive dishes, the team relies not only on their own memories and experiences, but also those of the community they serve. One example: the Mississippi Pot Roast, which one Fine Folk fan shared with the restaurant via an Instagram post about favorite food memories. “It’s basically cooking a chuck roast low and slow, with ranch powder and pepperoncini juice,” Lopez says. “And it turned out to be one of the best things I’ve ever tasted.”
In addition to serving up dishes that are equal parts creative and comforting, Fine Folk strives to create a comfortable atmosphere for all. The menu reflects this ethos, with vegan options and one fryer that’s reserved for gluten-free diners.
Lopez wants the restaurant to be whatever customers are looking for—whether that’s a place for a dinner date or a cozy spot to belly up to the bar with a good book. “We have a no-frills attitude,” Lopez says. “We’re making a place where people can just be people, and we thrive on the fact that we’re all here to put out good food.”