A fresh take on modern Latin-American cuisine with artful dishes and serious corn cred
By Kyle Marie McMahon
Tucked into a cozy corner of Raleigh’s evolving Gateway Plaza, Mala Pata is the kind of place that feels like a quiet secret—until the food hits the table. With freshly imported Oaxacan corn at the heart of its menu, this modern Mexican kitchen is now open and already making a confident entrance into Raleigh’s bustling food scene. My husband, James, and I had the chance to attend a soft opening and left fully convinced this spot is going to become a go-to for Triangle food lovers.
James ordered the Lechoncito de Oro, pork carnitas served in soft white corn tortillas with a spicy salsa avocado and topped with pork cracklings. Since I’m pescatarian, he had these all to himself, and he had no trouble finishing them off. I used this as an excuse not to share my Flautas de Papas—fresh tortillas wrapped around fluffy, whipped potatoes and deep fried to golden perfection, topped with a queso oaxaca, salsa macha, curtido and crema—but really it was because it so good I didn’t want to share! I’m a potato girl at heart, and the flavors in this dish meld to create such a unique and creamy bite, with the added crunch of the tortilla, minus any of the grease.
The flavors of every dish were layered and carefully balanced—nothing felt overly heavy, and every bite made us wish we had ordered two of everything (though I still wouldn’t have shared any of the flautas—it’s been weeks, and I still dream about eating this dish again).
Of course, we had to finish with dessert, a Latte Tres Leches, featuring moist and light white cake, soaked in coffee and milk with Mexican corn whiskey and topped with cajeta (a caramel), whipped cream, and a cinnamon streusel. It looked so delicious, I forgot a photo before digging in!
Although we didn’t get a chance to try one of the larger entrées, there were several that stood out on the menu, like their Fish Tacos and Pescado Contramar, or the Rajas Enchiladas, which are served with a Cheerwine mole—the perfect melding of North Carolina and Mexican cuisine. It’s clear that the team here puts care into every element, from sourcing Oaxacan corn and grinding it in-house, to plating with intention and artistry.
The ambiance is just as memorable. Mala Pata’s dining room is bright and airy, with eclectic artwork lining the walls and a semi-open kitchen that adds energy to the space. The staff was friendly, knowledgeable, and clearly passionate about the food—happy to walk us through ingredients or offer pairing suggestions.
The drink menu leans bright and bold, featuring classics with a fresh spin as well as unique non-alcoholic beverages such as the Corn-a-Cola, a roasted corn cordial with Mexican cola and soda. One of our favorites was their Painkiller, tequila and mezcal mixed with coconut, pineapple, sour orange and banana—just the right amount of tropical sweetness to pair with the spice and smoke of the food.
The restaurant shares space with the relocated Fiction Kitchen, and Mala Pata’s minibar, Peyote, is located just next door for a more casual experience. The bar is a great place for pre- or post-dinner drinks, and the welcoming design of Gateway Plaza encourages you to mingle and explore.
Mala Pata is now open to the public and accepting reservations, which I’d recommend based on their popularity and limited open hours. Whether you’re a fan of elevated Latin-American cuisine or simply curious about Raleigh’s next great dining destination, this is one to add to your list.
