By Dathan Kazsuk
Mexican food holds a special place in my heart—especially when I’m not playing sommelier at the dinner table. So, when we received a personal invite to check out Little Rey “Al Carbón,” located inside Raleigh Iron Works, I didn’t hesitate. It’s the latest venture from Atlanta-based chef Ford Fry, the culinary mastermind behind Cary’s Superica in Fenton, and it delivers bold, northern Mexico-inspired flavors.
Located at 1101 E. Whitaker Mill Road, Little Rey occupies a spacious 4,200-square-foot dining area. (As an added bonus for me, it’s conveniently a couple of doors down from the new Hunky Dory Records—a paradise for vinyl junkies like myself.) Upon entering, we were greeted by general manager Jeni Bye, who graciously guided us through our culinary journey.
Knowing we were diving into a media dinner, we had prepared accordingly—empty stomachs and appetites the size of Texas. And let me tell you, I was ready for the al carbón experience, which is based in the art of cooking over coals. This technique gives the proteins that signature smoky, irresistible flavor you’ll want to savor bite after bite.
We kicked things off with guacamole and queso paired with perfectly crisp chips and a plate of smoked chicken wings. These aren’t your average wings. Smoked to perfection and tossed in salsa macha with deep-fried peanuts, they’re served with jalapeño ranch to temper the heat. But don’t get it twisted—these wings bring some serious spice. Hot, smoky and downright addictive, they’re a must-order every time.
Next came the la torta diabla, a spicy crispy chicken sandwich stuffed into a brioche bun with jalapeño ranch, cabbage, pickles and salsa macha. It’s messy, fiery and glorious—it felt like a Mexican take on the Nashville hot chicken sandwich. Wear a napkin bib and ask for wet wipes, but don’t skip this one.
Then there were the tacos. From the nine available options, we landed on three: the chicken al carbón with smoked onions and pico de gallo, the steak al carbón with wood-grilled steak, and the el diablo tacos, which feature spicy shrimp, salsa macha, avocado crema, cheese, cabbage and jalapeños. Despite their intimidating name, even my wife Jen, who avoids spicy food, found herself enjoying the el diablo tacos.
While the menu isn’t overwhelming in size, it delivers variety and quality that will keep you coming back. The half chicken, served with your choice of tortillas, ranch beans, cilantro rice and smoked onions, is already on our list for the next visit. Other dishes, like the arroz con pollo, pozole rojo and a side of elote, promise to be worth the return trip.
Let’s not forget about the drinks. Sure, there’s a solid selection of beer (both packaged and draft), but the margaritas steal the show. I opted for the Rio Red, a refreshing grapefruit margarita. My only critique? Salt the rim next time, please.
Ford Fry has once again delivered a taste of Mexico to the Triangle. Little Rey “Al Carbón”isn’t just a restaurant—it’s a vibe and a frequent future stop for this taco-and-tequila lover. Whether you’re here for the smoky wings, a spicy torta or a round or two of margaritas, one thing’s for sure: this spot will have you planning your next visit before you’ve even left.
Check out more stories from around the Triangle at midtownmag.com.
